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In place of a long-neglected 18th-century pub, pristine Hurley House has sprung up from scratch as a rustic-elegant restaurant and bar with 10 boutique rooms. Halfway between Marlow and Henley, this is a hostelry made for its location – the no-expense-spared interiors (oak, bare-brick, dark leather and bright flashes of Farrow & Ball) are luxe yet homely, while serious cocktails and wines sit comfortably alongside foaming pints of Rebellion ale and posh bar snacks (hummus with pickled mushrooms, say). Chef Emanuele ‘Mirko’ Privitera lets ingredients impress – witness Cornish mackerel, charred and pepped-up with pickled cucumber, gooseberries and dill mayo, or an intense aged beef fillet accompanied by an oxtail-stuffed courgette flower, light ratatouille flavours and crisp bites of polenta. Elsewhere, a dish of delicate sweetcorn agnolotti with girolles and truffle shows real skill, while a cheesecake made from local Wigmore cheese alongside lemon sponge and yoghurt ice cream is simply unmissable. There’s also a spotless terrace for light lunches and BBQs in warmer months. Service strikes a refreshingly informal note, and breakfast – if you’re staying – is an absolute cracker.
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