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“Understated but cool”, this crowd-funded bistro in one of Manchester’s “coolest suburbs” is the third opening from barnstorming chef Gary Usher, following on from his critically acclaimed Burnt Truffle in Merseyside and Sticky Walnut in Chester. Hispi has a relaxed, homely feel, with cabinets crafted from old Indian window-frames, and tiles from a salvage yard, while the confident, concise menu shows all of Usher’s trademarks – starting off with satisfyingly chewy rye bread and Lincolnshire Poacher butter.
After that, “the food does all the talking”, from mackerel crudo with shaved fennel and tomato salsa to char-grilled pork chop with butterhead lettuce, pickled rhubarb and pork-fat dressing or oyster mushroom and goat’s curd linguine with hazelnut and parsley pesto. Yes, veggies do well here, while desserts could feature Paris-Brest or poached apricots with lemon thyme ice cream. Superb-value lunch and early-evening offers also attract the local punters. In all, the combination of well-executed cooking and convivial surroundings makes Hispi an exemplary local destination.
0161 445 3996
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