Inspired by Caprice Holdings’ private member’s club of the same name in Mayfair (and a cousin of Harry’s Dolce Vita https://www.squaremeal.co.uk/restaurant/harrys-dolce-vita in Knightsbridge), this open-to-all iteration of Harry’s Bar is in the rather less exclusive environs of St Christopher’s Place, home to Côte, Nando’s and Carluccio’s.
One inside, though, it’s old-school glamour all the way. The 50s-style interiors mix burnt orange banquettes with dark-wood panelling and splashes of gold, while low lighting adds a romantic touch.
An extensive menu of classic Italian comfort food (pizza, pasta, salads, steak) begins with tempting cicchetti, including balls of arancini which ooze truffle and parmesan, while puffed-up garlic and rosemary flatbread is a doughy delight. More substantial dishes might include ribbons of velvety pappardelle tied up with hunks of tender slow-cooked beef.
Our pizza was less successful. A dry disc of squid-ink dough topped with smoked salmon and sliced avocado smothered in an excess of dill sour cream wasted ingredients that should have been left for brunch; a simple margherita might have been a better bet.
Stick with the classics, though, and you’re unlikely to be disappointed, while thoughtful service from smartly dressed staff, luxe details such as pasta scooped out at the table from copper pans and playful touches like gold-dusted chocolate flakes scattered over decadent profiteroles make the size of the bill easier to swallow.
A list of classic Italian cocktails impresses (Negronis, Bellinis etc) while Champagne and by-the-glass wines are also available. Weekend brunch meanwhile, offers the perfect opportunity to take advantage of Harry’s charming outdoor terrace in the warmer months.