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Way down at the bottom end of Bermondsey Street, Flour & Grape seems precision-tuned to divert some of the queues from Padella up the road in London Bridge with its short, pasta-focused menu. It’s an appealing idea housed in an appealing set-up of a darkly-lit, brick-lined space that feels halfway between bar and dining room – appropriately enough for an outfit where equal emphasis is given to wine. A user-friendly all-Italian list is mostly available by the glass and carafe, with drinking across all price points and suggested matches for every dish on the menu. To eat, the idea is to follow two or three starters to share with pasta made in-house and a couple of scoops of gelato. Aside from a terrific plate of fazzoletti intermingled with a silky sauce of spinach, mascarpone and nutmeg, everything else we tried (gigli with sausage ragu, pappardelle with beef short-rib ragu, pork shoulder tortellini) was under-seasoned, while a similarly bland pork tonnato was not an improvement on the classic veal version. There was, however, no faulting the quality of the pasta itself – buy it to take away from the counter at the front.
020 7407 4682
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