Fat Baby is part of Hackney’s Night Tales, which proclaims itself as ‘East London’s largest covered terrace’ and combines a beer garden, nightclub and cocktail bar. With its gravel on the floor and potted plants lining the walls, Fat Baby might look like a beach bar, but it’s a proper, albeit casual, restaurant complete with table service (though note it’s only open during the latter half of the week).
The too cool for school menu features a concise selection of Japanese small plates. Start with puffy rice crackers dipped in a savoury nori dressing, before moving on to springy gyoza, stuffed with intensely meaty pork belly and a hint of mustard, or perhaps cubes of sticky and sweet fried tofu drizzled with golden sesame oil.
More substantial options include an of-the-moment pork katsu sandwich, and succulent strips of beef onglet tataki, unfortunately loaded with a touch too much wasabi. Thick-set white miso ice cream is the only dessert option, while Japanese beers and cocktails are on-hand from the bar.
Cheap, buzzy and Insta-ready, Fat Baby is perfectly placed to feed Hackney’s cool kids.