Davy’s at St James’s feels like the kind of place you can live in London for a decade and suddenly stumble across, thrilled that you've found an authentic hidden gem in a city that's often obsessed with Instagram corners. Set beneath Pall Mall in what was once a Champagne cellar, the space still carries that history with vaulted ceilings, low lighting and an atmosphere that's more about celebrating the old-school than being polished.
The layout is informal with mismatched chairs, Chesterfield sofas, candelabras and vintage lighting giving it a slightly eclectic edge. It doesn’t try too hard, which is part of the appeal.
The bar - and a fantastic, expertly-curated wine selection - is a central part of the experience. Wines come via Davy’s Wine Merchants, selected by James Davy and the buying team, and there’s a clear emphasis on drinking well without overcomplicating things. Each dish on the menu is paired with a suggested wine, which takes some of the guesswork out of ordering as a group. Alongside that, there’s a solid selection of craft beers, including Davy’s Old Wallop, still served in pewter tankards.
Food follows a modern British approach, built around seasonal ingredients sourced from the UK where possible. Starters include Severn and Wye smoked salmon with lemon and dill crème fraîche, and Davy’s Scotch egg - soft-boiled, coated in sausage meat and crisp breadcrumbs, served with chorizo chutney and celeriac rémoulade. They’re familiar dishes, but executed with enough attention to detail to hold their own.
Mains cover a mix of seafood, pasta and grill options. Herb-crusted cod comes with olive tapenade, creamed spinach and mashed potatoes, while king prawn and crab linguine brings something lighter but still full of flavour. For something more substantial, steaks are a strong choice with options across rib-eye or sirloin, sourced from family farms in Bedfordshire and aged for 28 days.
As for desserts, you can't beat a classic. Pear and stem ginger crumble, lemon tart with raspberry coulis, and a chocolate brownie with hot sauce and vanilla ice cream are all crowd-pleasers.