Famous as one of the best places to eat duck and foie gras since opening in 1998, Club Gascon is moving with the low-waste and sustainable times, re-opening from a refurb with a ‘Garden’ section of the menu featuring six veg-focused starters and mains. Rest assured, however, that if slow-cooked egg with plankton, seaweed and bitter leaves doesn’t float your boat, all things duck still form the core of the menu – and are far and away the best things to eat here, foie gras especially: a smooth-as-butter terrine served with banyuls, fig and Argan oil to start or, spectacularly, served with a Bailey’s and mandarin sauce for pudding, beguilingly sweet and savoury; thick lobes of pan-fried foie gras sitting under a shell crammed with razor clams is another flavour bomb. Non-ducky options such as roasted sturgeon with leeks, bone marrow and Craster sauce, and roast grouse with popcorn, Guinness and oyster sauce seemed less appealingly individual and more fine-dining-by-numbers, but a kitchen that excels with pudding ensures things end on a high note, from a pre-dessert variation on prunes and Armagnac that left us wanting much, much more to a ‘millionaire’ dessert made from 72% Colombian chocolate with black olive, lemon gel and thyme ice cream, so rich it demanded to be savoured slowly. Eye-opening wine matching remains a strength, while the restaurant’s new look has a timeless modernity that should last for another 20 years.
Does Club Gascon have a Michelin star?
Club Gascon has one Michelin star.
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0207 600 6144
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No duck; not as it used to be at all. It has no more connection to Gascony than it does to Japanese. It's now blumenthal-like deconstructed food. No dudes even of vegetables or duck-fat cooked chips. It's now powdered vegetable wit a tiny amount of the main ingredient, like a homeopathic meal. The powdered vegetable base looked like coloured talcum powder or part of a pot noodle. It doesn't even make up for it in amazing flavours. This place used to be brilliant. Now it's the worst of showing-off cooking not designed to feed the diner but more to feed the ego of the chef.
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