Sally Clarke MBE is restaurant royalty hereabouts, and her Kensington bolthole has acquired legendary status since launching in the 80s. We reckon its enduring appeal stems from its ability to move with fashion while maintaining a sense of timeless elegance: the (infamous) no-choice menu now plays second fiddle to à la carte, while the interior feels rather like a tastefully decorated front room with aproned waiters overseeing the tables. Sally's food still draws on the Californian flavours that first inspired her, although some Mediterranean riffs are now tossed in – think buffalo mozzarella with pomegranate, artichokes and hazelnuts, roasted turbot with capers, gherkins and lemon mayonnaise or a garlicky char-grilled veal chop with purple artichokes, watercress and shaved fennel. A serious global wine list leans heavily towards the Napa Valley. "Expensive, but worth it", concludes one fan.