Another winner from Gary Usher (he of Sticky Walnut and Hispi fame), this Merseyside barnstormer occupies a modest sandstone building off Heswall’s main drag. Inside, a clean, classic interior allows Usher’s eclectic seasonal food do the talking – so be prepared for plenty of surprises. Given the restaurant’s name and parentage, it’s not surprising that meals begin with pillowy soft sourdough accompanied by truffle and walnut butter, while starters could promise anything from soused mackerel with pickled rhubarb, crème fraîche and radicchio to new season’s beetroot with the house ricotta and linseed crackers. Bright, unusual flavours also stand out when it comes to mains of pan-roasted lamb rump with roast mussel emulsion, tenderstem broccoli and silverskin onions or steamed cod accompanied by new potatoes, spinach and dill butter. Cheeses are true Brits, while desserts span everything from fresh doughnuts with buttermilk custard to ginger parkin with butterscotch sauce. The combination of zesty cooking, great value and terrific service puts this place way ahead of the local competition.