Brat x Climpson's Arch

This may be the younger Brat, but Tomos Parry’s journey started here in many ways - Parry took over the reigns at Climpson’s back in 2013, and it was the first time Londoners experienced the flame-licked style that won Brat a Michelin star five years later. As you walk with trepidation under railway arches and past industrial lockups, you may question whether you’re on the right track - don’t worry, good things are just around the corner.

One thing to note about Brat x Climpson’s Arch - the restaurant is covered but not completely indoors, and as a result it can get chilly in the evenings. We came equipped with jumpers and that proved sufficient, but if it’s particularly cold you should dress accordingly. 

We kicked off with two superb cocktails - a delightful toasted daiquiri of rum, coconut and lime with a touch of smoke, and a Climpson’s espresso martini that was admirably light on sugar. It was a sign of things to come. Oysters soon followed, anointed with fresh tomato and seaweed. Then, bread, inflated by the heat and smoke of the grill, indented with calcots and generously covered in shavings of Berkswell cheese. Vegetable fritto misto with anchovy dip and rich, fatty pork mince balls, wrapped and steamed in savoy cabbage leaves are equally brilliant, and leave us in need of a break. We get a good 20 minutes to catch our breath before the arrival of a whole Dover sole, gently roasted and smoked over open fire until melting and gelatinous. It’s a transcendent fish experience that will ruin all other fish for you, forever. For all that has been written about the fish cooking at Brat over the last few years, it really has to be tried to be understood. 

There was really only one way to finish - the burnt cheesecake to end all burnt cheesecakes, this time with a sharp kick of pink rhubarb to pierce through the richness. Brat has become divisive over the last few years, perhaps out of expectation that casual east London restaurants shouldn’t have this sort of price tag. Yes, the bill is no drop in the ocean but for the quality of the cooking? We'd go back in a heartbeat.

Brat x Climpson’s Arch brings Tomos Parry’s famous fire-led cooking to Hackney, offering a relaxed offshoot of his acclaimed restaurant brand. Tucked beneath the railway arches in London Fields, this distinctive venue blends rustic charm with bold, Basque-inspired flavours and features in the Michelin Guide thanks to its reputation for wood-fired excellence.

The atmosphere is both vibrant and inviting. A large covered courtyard extends the restaurant outdoors, with a marquee roof, festoon lighting and communal tables that create a lively, social feel. Inside, exposed brick, wood panelling and eclectic artwork combine with warm tones to form an industrial-chic backdrop. Open kitchens, both indoors and in the courtyard, keep the drama at the centre of the experience, as chefs work over glowing embers while the scent of smoke drifts across the space. A long bar provides room for walk-ins, drinks and lighter snacks, making it equally suited to a quick bite or a leisurely dinner.

Menus change with the seasons, with plenty of sharing plates that showcase the depth of flavour only fire can deliver. Diners might find whole crab with hay butter, roasted chicken rice, grilled shellfish or charred seasonal vegetables, all cooked with Brat’s signature precision. Daily blackboard specials keep things fresh, while desserts such as burnt Basque cheesecake with peaches bring the meal to a memorable close.

An extensive wine list complements the food, alongside a range of bar options for more casual visits. With vegetarian dishes thoughtfully included and an atmosphere that strikes the balance between relaxed and refined, Brat x Climpson’s Arch has become one of Hackney’s most exciting destinations, whether for a long summer supper or a cosy winter gathering.