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Mini-empire builder Malcolm John has re-branded and re-launched his Fish & Grill as a Croydon cousin of Brasserie Vacherin in Sutton – complete with Parisian trappings and pictures of the French regions dotted around the dining room. Like its sibling, the menu offers a mix of bistro chart-toppers leavened with a few more generic European ideas, from spinach and goats’ cheese crêpes, moules marinière, cassoulet and confit Barbary duck with cherries to veal escalope with anchovy and caper butter. ‘Quick plates’ such as steak and Gruyère baguettes suit those on the move, while desserts keep it familiar with crème brûlée, tarte Tatin and chocolate fondant. Lunch and early-evening prix-fixe deals offer fair value (£10.95/15.95 for two/three courses), and there’s plenty of decent drinking by the carafe on the Euro-accented wine list.
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