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To call this Soho seafood bolthole a shack does it a disservice. Rather than being a novelty seaside holiday restaurant, this mature and thoroughly enjoyable sister to Bonnie Gull Fitzrovia feels modern and fresh. With just 23 covers, the narrow space is dominated by a long, marble counter which overlooks an open kitchen. No reservations (excluding a small room at the back which can be hired) means Bonnie Gull works best as a casual option for quality seafood, approached with flair and originality. Starting with a range of native and rock oysters from the UK, the menu stays local for a list of dishes ranging from barbecued lemon sole with devilled shrimp butter, to squid toast with squid ink aioli. A plate of Isle of Man-sourced queen scallops is dotted with chunks of green apple and black pudding for a colourful, compelling clash of flavours and textures, while you might find the odd nod to turf, such as roasted venison peppered with prunes to give it plenty of bite. We recommend a light, crisp slice of lemon tart with sorbet to finish, or perhaps a sweet glass of Montbazillac from the brief, New-World wine list. With its fun and friendly staff and flexible approach to dining, Bonnie Gull Soho works for both a quality pit stop and a lingering, low-lit seafood supper.
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