Noted for its swish boutique opulence, the trendsetting Club Hotel & Spa sits well in St Helier’s fashionably moneyed financial quarter – although cool elegance prevails in the flagship Bohemia restaurant. But don’t be fooled by the dining room’s wood panelling, leather chairs or muted brown and grey furnishings, because there’s nothing subdued about Steve Smith’s Michelin-starred cooking. A bewildering array of menus is offered, although the ‘surprise’ and ‘prestige’ options provide the most comprehensive demonstrations of the chef’s talents. From the first taste of ‘shrimps, pistachio and brown butter’ to the last mouthful of ‘spiced apple and blackberry’, it’s a roller-coaster of intricate flavours and contrasting textures. Along the way, you might sample the following: oyster cassonade with cucumber and yuzu; turbot with Cevennes onion, smoked eel, rock samphire and mustard; belted Galloway sirloin with broccoli, English wasabi and oxtail on toast. Meanwhile, the carte offers some more approachable ideas including lamb loin and braised neck with Jerusalem artichoke and goats’ cheese. The food is matched by an impressive international wine list, with France in pole position.