Belly

Wedged into a sea of shopfronts on Kentish Town Road, Belly is part French bistro, part Filipino eatery. It’s a tiny little place, miraculously squeezing in 35 covers, with groups of girls, young families and date nights, all sandwiched together like merry sardines.

We dutifully engage in this game of Tetris, taking a seat up at the counter. A giant mirror is scrawled with today’s wine specials, while cocktails are shaken with vigor in the back bar. All very chic, yes, but some kitsch decorations and relaxed staff are a reminder that Belly doesn’t take itself too seriously.

So, what’s on the menu at a modern Filipino European bistro? A seafood ‘caldereta’ gives the classic Filipino stew a bouillabaisse twist: beef is subbed for seafood and cooked in a delicate fish stock broth. Fondly familiar, fresh and filling, it’s everything you’d hope for from a place called ‘Belly.’ The only minor hiccup is a prawn head aioli, which feels slightly out of place without some fries on the table.

Not totally free from London’s burger shackles, Belly has crafted its own elevated version of a Filet-O-Fish. A thick chunk of tempura cod is fleshy, flaky and confidently crisp. Slathered in salmon roe tartar and topped with a comforting slice of American cheese, it's a must order, even for devoted Big Mac fans.

When fusion works, it really works: a French Filipino Wagyu bistek is greater than the sum of its parts, swimming in soy-spiked beef jus, and garnished with enough black pepper to put hairs on your chest. Equally delicious, Pink Fir potatoes are slashed for maximum crispiness and doused in a deep, umami kombu butter. But the magic trick doesn’t always come off, and when it fails, it’s glaring: a bright purple ube tiramisu is too dense and cakey, for example. Our neighbour’s fish sauce profiterole looked like the right choice.

With no risk, there’s no reward, and Belly stands strong in its quest for innovation. Undeniably vibey, original, and quietly charming, we’re glad this spot exists to keep us on our toes.

Now open on Kentish Town Road, Belly is a bold new bistro that brings together modern Filipino and European influences, all centred around the warmth and flavour of wood-fired cooking. Founded by Omar Shah, a seasoned restaurateur with deep roots in the area, Belly joins a growing family of venues that includes Ramo Ramen, Mamasons and Donia, each reflecting Omar’s flair for creative, Asia-inspired food with strong local character.

With just 35 covers, Belly is intimate and carefully considered. The space is calm and elegant, with white tablecloths, bentwood chairs and soft light filtering through sheer curtains by day, shifting to candlelight as evening sets in. It’s an inviting setting for a menu that blends bistro comfort with a sense of adventure.

Dishes are designed to be both bold and approachable. Starters include reimagined French classics such as steak tartare with cured yolk and nori crisps, alongside more eclectic plates like scallops cured and warmed through with malt vinegar and fermented shrimp coconut sauce. A cod tempura slider served on house-baked pandesal nods to Belly’s sister café, Mama & Sons, just next door.

Mains make full use of the wood-fired grill, from oak-smoked Tinola chicken with ginger, caper and coriander salsa verde, to sticky tamarind lamb ribs and wagyu picanha with liver and peppercorn sauce. Even the sides stand out, including wood-fired potatoes with kombu butter and coconut vinegar, and beef fat fries with Belly’s own sriracha thousand island.

Desserts continue the unexpected combinations, with frozen custard profiteroles finished with fish sauce caramel, and a rich coconut pie served with chantilly cream. A growing list of global wines is available by the glass or bottle, thoughtfully paired to enhance the flavours of the menu.
Belly brings something distinctive to Kentish Town - a modern bistro with a sense of place, a generous welcome and a menu full of surprise.