SquareMeal Review of Bel & The Dragon Cookham
Philanthropist, heir to the Cadbury chocolate empire and one-time owner of Soho’s Groucho Club, Joel Cadbury expanded his horizons with this mini-chain of upmarket inns scattered around the Thames Valley and the Home Counties. Expect a user-friendly mix of spacious wood-floored drinking spaces and casual dining areas in tune with the original building’s history and heritage. The food is a broadly European mix of standards and more flashy ideas – from beefy cuts on the Josper grill and rotisserie to more elaborate plates of seared Orkney scallops with aubergine caviar and curried cauliflower or rabbit, chorizo and white bean stew, followed by, say, warm chocolate fondant with blackcurrant ice cream. House wine is offered by the magnum and customers merely pay for what they drink, while weekend brunch and children’s menus broaden Bel’s all-round appeal.