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Acme Fire Cult @ 40FT Brewery

Barbecue, Modern European·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Acme Fire Cult @ 40FT Brewery

Silver Award

You can smell the smoke billowing from Acme Fire Cult’s hulking iron grills from halfway up Kingsland Road. The scent of caramelised fat and charcoal evokes vivid barbecue memories, but Acme is far more than just burgers and bangers. This is a restaurant that has redefined open-fire cooking in London: Acme has changed the game.

The dining room is a perfectly functional, workmanlike space, but the restaurant truly shines when the sun’s out and you can grab a seat on the covered terrace. Out there, chefs tend the roaring fires, layering steaks, roasting leeks in the coals, and grating frankly obscene amounts of pecorino romano over hunks of Marmite sourdough. Acme makes its own ‘Marmite’ using yeast extract from neighbouring 40FT Brewery, then soaks leftover Dusty Knuckle sourdough in Marmite butter. The result? A gloriously chewy, umami-laden kick-off. One of the simplest, most delicious single bites in London? We reckon it might be.

Acme still champions veg-forward cooking, and some standout dishes remain, like the coal-roasted leeks. Nestled in the embers, they steam in their own juices, intensifying in flavour before being sliced open and slathered with a vivid pistachio romesco. It’s the kind of dish that could convert even the most devout carnivores.

That said, not everything hits the mark. Trombetta courgettes with tomato kelp XO and creme fraiche sound good on paper, but the courgettes lacked both smoke and seasoning, and the dish got lost beneath the richness of the creme.

Mains lean heavily on protein, but the execution is excellent. A rare, meaty bavette is sliced thin and served in a seaweed-spiked peppercorn sauce that’ll have you scraping down the plate with a spatula. Those with heartier appetites can tackle a hulking Tamworth pork chop paired with a punchy mojo rojo - also beautifully cooked.

Acme may no longer feel like the radical trailblazer it once was - its cooking now leans slightly more toward crowd-pleasing than envelope-pushing - but it remains one of London’s best fire-led kitchens.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Barbecue, Modern European
Ambience
Cool, Fun, Lively, Quirky, Unique
Awards
SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
All day dining, Dinner, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Beer garden, Great views, Outside seating, Rooftop, Terrace
Special Features
Vegan options, Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Group dining [8+]

About

Acme Fire Cult is a live-fire concept from chefs Andrew Clarke and Daniel Watkins, the next step for the duo after a successful summer residency at London Fields Courtyard in Hackney. Located at 40FT Brewery in Dalston, Acme is a collaboration with Steve Ryan of 40FT, and offers a new approach to BBQ, where vegetables take centre stage and where food and drink are intrinsically linked. And for a bit of context, Acme derives from the Greek word akme, meaning the point at which something is at its best or most highly developed. 

The low waste menu uses beer brewing by-products to make ferments and sauces, such as its Acme ‘Marmite’ made from leftover beer yeast. Vegetables lie at the heart of the menu, alongside rare and native breed meat and fish from sustainable suppliers. Grilling and fermentation techniques are harnessed at Acme, as well as the heavy use of chilli and spices. The menu is constantly evolving but you might find things like flatbreads with coal-roasted leeks and pistachio romesco or ‘Char Siu’ beetroot with mojo verde. Large plates, meanwhile, include longhorn beef bavette with green peppercorn sauce or roasted celeriac, mushroom-kelp XO, white beans and salsa verde.

The restaurant has 10 beer taps pouring fresh beers brewed on site, as well as special edition beers to be paired with the food. There is also a concise wine list and a cocktail menu (with pairings) featuring classic negronis, margaritas and beer-based cocktails.  

The restaurant caters for 50 covers inside, including a bar area with six seats, plus 60 covers outside on the covered and heated terrace. A large custom-made grill and smoker stand proudly in the covered yard, serving Acme Fire Cult flavours whatever the weather. Inside, the space is pared back and dark with industrial elements.

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FAQs

Are there veggie options on the menu?

Yes, the menu leads with vegetable dishes and uses meat in a supporting role so there's plenty of choice for vegetarians.

Helpful? 0

Do you need to book a table?

Yes, we recommend that you book a table online before visiting.

Helpful? 0

Acme Fire Cult @ 40FT Brewery is featured in

Location

The Bootyard, Abbot Street, Dalston, London, E8 3DP
Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu 12:00-16:00
Fri 12:00-16:00
Sat Closed
Sun 12:00-16:00
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:30-23:00
Wed 17:30-23:00
Thu 17:30-23:00
Fri 17:30-23:00
Sat Closed
Sun Closed
All day
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat 13:00-23:00
Sun Closed

Reviews

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

27 December 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

The food. Just the food. Inexplicable (literally). Flavours that you've never experienced. The only place I've ever been where the vegetable dishes beat the meat and fish hands down (although those are exceptional). The innovation in their dishes is incredible. 

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