SquareMeal Review of
Treves & Hyde
Housed within ‘aparthotel’ Leman Locke, this light-drenched, minimalist all-day restaurant includes a ground-level bar and terrace. An imposing spiral staircase takes you up to a dining room of light-yellow furnishings and pale oak tables, where chef George Tannock (trained at The Fat Duck) lets fresh, seasonal ingredients do the talking in some very pretty dishes. Our starter of venison tartare was imbued with truffle and served with wafer-thin, unleavened bread and a smear of smoky burnt ketchup. We were also impressed by comforting mains including a generous helping of tiger prawn pasta, and tender beef brisket with bacon pudding (a recipe from Tannock’s mother). Dessert was a misfire in comparison: one of only two options, the butterscotch crème caramel came in a miniscule jar and was topped with salty popcorn – not what you’d expect at a restaurant of this calibre. To quench your thirst, there’s a weekly-changing cocktail list, alongside signature sips including Brigadoon (Scotch, apricot brandy, lemon) and Naked & Famous (yellow chartreuse, Aperol, mescal and lime). Perky staff and decent prices add to the appeal, making Treves & Hyde a winner for those who like style and substance.
Treves & Hyde is recommended for