SquareMeal Review of
The Coal Shed, Brighton
Drawing inspiration from the new wave of London steakhouses, The Coal Shed takes its protein seriously with 35-day aged Longhorn beef given star billing on the meaty menu. Slabs of locally sourced
fillet, rib-eye and rump sizzle on the kitchen's Josper grill, while the blackboard bristles with larger sharing cuts of porterhouse and prime rib, sold by weight. Grilled bone marrow and braised oxtail maintain the fleshy theme, but there's also plenty to keep surf fans happy – from Irish rock oysters to hake with chermoula. Finish with tongue-scorching mini-doughnuts dunked in
molten chocolate. The hard-edged, macho interior (stripped floorboards and industrial pendant lamps) feels right for the food, although it can result in a deafening din at peak times. Sensible
prices and a drinker-friendly, international wine list with plenty by the glass or carafe are additional plus points.