SquareMeal Review of
Despite its home in a cavernous site on Soho’s Windmill Street, the second location for Sophie’s Steakhouse still has a cosy atmosphere thanks to low-lighting and friendly staff. A far cry from the modest Chelsea original, this Sophie’s juxtaposes industrial chic (exposed brickwork and an open kitchen) with unapologetic glamour (glittering chandeliers and red leather seats). Tender, punchy slabs of fillet, ribeye or sirloin come from an open-fire infiernillo grill, accompanied by sauces such as peppered bone-marrow gravy. The grill also has a hand in the likes of charred octopus complemented by silky burnt aubergine, and a veggie option of crunchy smoked cauliflower.
However, it’s the extras that make Sophie’s a cut above some of the competition. Small-plate starters include juicy rib croquettes dipped in a sharp pickled mayo, and cubes of roasted beetroot with an added kick of horseradish, while a warm loaf of sourdough is best enjoyed with lashings of the smoked butter. Sides also impress, thanks to the addictive beef-dripping fries, and a juicy bowl of tomato mixed in with creamy avocado and burnt onion. Once you’ve finished, head to the bar which serves up US-style martinis, and if you’re looking to make a night of it, speakeasy Jack Solomon’s Club is right below Sophie’s, accessed via a faux shop frontage.
Sophie's Soho is recommended for