SquareMeal Review of
The Dining Room at Chewton Glen
Over the years, Chewton Glen has evolved and expanded from a traditional country house retreat into a small resort – and the food side of things is showing signs of a full-strength comeback after a period in the doldrums. Done out like a swanky conservatory with pale furniture, big windows and splashes of greenery, The Dining Room exudes confidence and casual excellence. The menu brings together influences from far and wide, although everything depends on impeccable ingredients (many from the hotel’s kitchen garden): twice-baked Emmental soufflé, Thai lobster curry and soy-cured trout with yuzu and wasabi might share the billing with ballottine of duck liver or Dorset rose veal with crispy Laverstoke black pudding, sweetbreads and English asparagus. Oysters, salads, grills and roasts from the trolley also feature, while dessert might offer egg custard tart with rhubarb or poached pear with cider sorbet, pecan nut and cranberry biscotti – all backed by a truly monumental wine list. Meanwhile, a casual new restaurant/cookery school, The Kitchen, is helping to raise Chewton Glen’s foodie profile even higher.