SquareMeal Review of
Restaurant Andrew Fairlie
The first phase of Gleneagles’ extravagantly expensive redevelopment is now complete, although there are no signs of upheaval at Andrew Fairlie’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant nestled within the world-famous hospitality resort. Occupying a quiet corner of the complex, this is a calm, sophisticated space with enough formality to create a sense of occasion – think diffuse lighting, soft furnishings and lively paintings hung on textured brown/black walls. Fairlie’s precise and highly assured cooking is rooted in the classic European tradition and he’s a master of refinement: Home-smoked Scottish lobster dressed with warm lime butter has been on the menu since the very early days, and other dishes also seem like old friends – the roast loin of Highland roe deer with game bonbon and port jus, for example. Elsewhere, sophistication is the watchword (think wild mushroom and truffle ravioli with white bean velouté or fillet of stone bass with confit pork belly and Madeira jus), while desserts such as pistachio and vanilla mille-feuille with poached rhubarb and rhubarb sorbet are works of art. The wine list is as long as a school register, but the sommelier is eager to offer teasing suggestions.