SquareMeal Review of
André Garrett at Cliveden
Famed for its racy aristocratic shenanigans back in the day, Cliveden still lives and breathes unashamed extravagance – although it’s also an entrancing prospect for high-end gustatory satisfaction. André Garrett’s sumptuous, softly hued dining room sits well amid the hotel’s flamboyantly Italianate glamour with its billowing drapes, ostentatious crystal chandeliers, portraits and velvety fabrics, but for all its adornments, there’s a feeling of genuine intimacy about eating here – and the views are stunning. As befits such a setting, the chef’s gently stimulating contemporary French cuisine promises rich seasonal rewards: Hebridean salmon served ‘mi cuit’ with cauliflower, endive, hazelnut and truffle; English rose veal tartare with shimeji mushrooms, quail’s egg yolk, caviar and nasturtium; roast fillet of turbot with pink fir potatoes, seaweed, celery and borage velouté. ‘Locally stalked fallow deer’ is another seasonal treat, while desserts include a chocoholic’s trip involving a ganache shard, crumble, aero and Moroccan mint ice cream. Petits fours are pure indulgence, and the spectacular wine list is an oenophile’s treasure trove tailor-made for living the high life.