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In addition to swanning it in the swanky Camellia Restaurant, visitors to this lavishly refurbished Victorian mansion can also get up close and personal to the culinary action at the Michelin-starred Pass – a dramatic dining space right at the heart of the kitchen, complete with LCD screens beaming footage of the chefs going about their work. It may sound gimmicky, but this is serious stuff – even if the decor is a garish designer hotchpotch of fierce lighting, sparkly surfaces and sickly green banquettes all in a row.  Head chef Matt Gillan uses locally sourced produce for a series of thrillingly realised tasting menus full of unexpected flavours and contrasts: salmon, white asparagus and red pepper; pigeon with artichoke and treacle; lamb, garlic and ‘salty fingers’, etc. Desserts also aim to thrill, from a combo of honeycomb, soy and bee pollen to lime with mango and olive. Or you can take the plunge by ordering one of the ‘surprise’ menus, which means you won’t know what’s coming next. Either way, expertly chosen wine flights provide an enticing introduction to the wide-ranging list.

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Essential Details for Matt Gillan at The Pass

  • Cuisine: British
  • Area: West Sussex
  • Price: £97.00
  • Wine: £24.00
  • Champagne: £50.00
  • Lunch: £27.50/37.50/57.50 (4/6/8 courses)
  • Dinner: £65/75/85/95 (6/8/10/12 courses)

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