Nobu Berkeley St 22

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Square Meal Review of Nobu Berkeley St ?

Nobu Berkeley St was once the celebrity canteen of choice, and most nights there’s still a jostle of predatory paparazzi outside, even if the clientele isn’t quite as A-list as it used to be. Live the high life by floating up the winding staircase to the burnished, futuristic dining room and prepare for some ‘honed to perfection’ food. Anything involving raw fish is always a good shout – whether sushi, sashimi or ceviche – but the kitchen can also do punchy and beefy, especially when it fires up the wood oven for plates of Wagyu rump tataki. The much-imitated miso-glazed black cod is also big on taste, and there are some diverting South American crossovers, too (salmon or lobster tacos, for example). Despite its famously trendy food, exclusive sakés and blockbuster wines, Nobu gets a black mark for service: ‘arrogant’, ‘unintelligent’ and ‘brusque’ are just some of the latest damning broadsides. What would de Niro make of such treatment, we wonder?

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