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Laminate flooring, bright white cabinets and garish plastic chandeliers give Casa di Fiori a style somewhere between the palace of a Disney Princess and an IKEA showroom. The name translates as
‘house of flowers’ and there are enough fresh bouquets to make this a no-go zone for hay-fever sufferers – although the menu promises classic Italian dishes served with a liberal dose of luxury
ingredients and lots of prettifying garnishes. Fresh, meaty lobster terrine is paired with a grapefruit salad, and there’s creamy, gooey burrata served on a lattice of pesto, though our beef fillet
topped with foie gras and wedge-thick shavings of black truffle failed to deliver anything more than moderate flavour. To finish, tiramisu strikes a homely note on a dessert menu otherwise
preoccupied with intricate pastries and platters, while the wine is patriotically tilted towards Italy.
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