SAPLING PERMANENTLY CLOSED 22 DECEMBER 2018
This restaurant may be found on the same gritty Dalston street as a Chinese takeaway and a minicab office, but with its chic and minimalist interior you wouldn’t know it. Once inside, you’ll be greeted by pleasingly simple interiors (mosaic-topped tables, hanging pendant lights) and a central dining counter which runs the length of the room.
Wine is the focus here, with Sapling boasting a list of nearly 40 bins, all available by the glass. A further 100 wines are available by the bottle, or to sample via a Coravin system. We were impressed by our 2014 Domaine Audiffred red, which was smooth and full, while there is a short selection of Champagne available for diners looking to celebrate.
From the selection of accomplished small plates, our highlight was the gnocchi, sinfully buttery pellets of pasta, bursting with cheese and complemented by soft chunks of butternut squash. We loved this dish so much that we ordered a second portion of it. We also enjoyed a rainbow-coloured bowl of heritage carrots, served with a beguilingly smoky harrisa paste. Another plate of four miniature crispy chicken wings fell off the bone and came served with an earthy beetroot purée, disguised as a splodge of ketchup.
With its muted interior and laid-back atmosphere, Sapling isn’t the place to come if you’re looking to party, although the excellent, low-volume soundtrack did range from Drake to Lauryn Hill on our visit. Nevertheless, it’s a great shout for a cosy catch-up with a friend, or to impress a date with your wine knowledge.