Foodess' review of The French Horn

Since last visit, it looks like they’ve upgraded the décor. It remains a traditionally styled property on a Thames backwater, softly lit up at night so waterside views can still be enjoyed during an evening meal.

A few goodies already awaited us beside the fish orientated canapé , bread and amuse bouche that were to come, so restraint was needed as I considered ordering half a lobster and half a duck. My starter was accomplished if sauce flavour was lacking depth, though wafer thin pasta and forkfuls of succulent lobster countered this. My partner’s stuffed quail was good but less flavourful than hoped. He was, however, totally satisfied with the other half of my duck, carved at tableside. Extensive wine list has prices extending to the stratospheric. Pre-ordained veg didn’t quite fit with roast duck, gravy plus trimmings, especially the dauphinoise that virtually disintegrated. Mash , or even plain boiled would have sufficed, especially as a dairy enhanced side of cauliflower was also served. Needless to say, we couldn’t look at the dessert menu, but petit-fours were just too good to resist.

Almost all was more or less as it should be and Canard L’anglaise, is sooo worth ordering. Quite costly for non-michelin, I think mainly because generous servings of some rather expensive ingredients including fine cuts of beef, king of the soles and foie gras which features in many dishes. A serious number of knowledgeable staff unobtrusively attend and are ready to help, so I guess that’s another reason. Very relaxing evening assisted by the tranquil setting………looking forward to further samplings.