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|Address:||55 Aldwych, London WC2B 4BB|
|Tel:||020 7499 8558|
|Price: £51.00||Wine: £19.00||Champagne: £55.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 11.30am-12M (Sun -11pm)|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
Dining at The Delaunay is a bit like going to the theatre. It is something of an event. The ambience and decor is reminiscent of a rather grand Parisian brasserie, with the menu following a similar route, albeit with a marked Germanic twist. My steak tartar starter was good, but not a patch on Galvin's, and while my choucroute main course (something of a brasserie benchmark, I feel) was certainly acceptable, it was neither as interesting or as well executed as it would be in Flo or Bofinger. On the other hand, the wine list was rather better and more broad-minded than you might find in either eaterie and the reasonably-priced Heinrich Blaufranckische we chose was ample proof that Austrian red wine can be exciting, different, refined and a long, long way from the alcoholic jam of much of the New World. The service was exemplary: the winning combination of efficiency and friendliness that the same proprietors achieve in The Wolseley, another large and glamourous space which others have already compared to The Delaunay, correctly in my view.
If the brasserie style food is better at Galvins and Racine, both establishments are inevitably more intimate and certainly less glamorous. At The Delaunay, the restaurant – rather than the kitchen – is the star performer. On the evening of our visit, the increasingly venerable Tom Jones swept in. Our Tom seemed happy and content,. And as I glanced around the large room, the same could be said for everyone dining at The Delaunay. We were all having a great night out. There's something to be said for that.