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|Address:||34 Portman Street, London W1H 7BY|
|Tel:||020 7224 0028|
|Price: £76.00||Wine: £29.00||Champagne: £60.00|
|Opening Hours:||Tues-Sat 12N-2.30pm 6.30-10.30pm|
1 of 2 people found this review helpful.
First impressions at Texture were pretty great: friendly and attentive staff at the front bar dished out drinks as we arrived in dribs and drabs and delivered the best popcorn nibbles I've ever had in my life. Then we were shown through to the dining room with its high ceilings and minimalist art beautifully blending tradition with modernity, to our table near the semi-open kitchen. We all agreed on the tasting menu, despite the £79 price tag, to get the full experience, with 2 of us also swallowing £49 for matched wines. Unfortunately, that's just about where memory fails me. Whilst we all agreed that the chef had certainly fulfilled his ambition of turning out interesting food without all the heavy butter it just lacked the oomph it needed to be a really special meal. We started off impressed by how closely the chef stuck with the eponymous texture mission with a mint pea soup thing with some granita other thing; then I've got vague memories of asparagus and sweetcorn which came as both bits and a puree. But then the next thing I remember (for the wrong reasons) was a bland sliver of beef which didn't really live up to all the US prime grain-fed blurb and of which the best part was the one bowl of triple cooked chips to share. And the rest is just not very memorable. Add to that, the acoustics are terrible: I could barely hear my companions above the hubbub and I couldn't hear the waiters at all which was particularly frustrating as they insisted on interrupting our meal with explanations of the food and wine (delivered as seriously as a Shakespearian soliloquy) which we nodded along with, deafly but dutifully, for 12 wasted and unwanted interruptions. The more senior staff were smiley but I felt it lacked any real joy overall. Yes it's cool, modern, unpretentious, unfussy, unusual and light but for me the best bit was the goody bag of macaroons to take home (yum). If I could spend my £150 again I'd be going back to revel in the exuberance of Heston's meat fruit. Or somewhere with carpet and lard.