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|Address:||5 William IV Street, London WC2N 4DW|
|Tel:||020 7036 0660|
|Price: £41.00||Wine: £17.00||Champagne: £52.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-11pm|
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We are blessed in London with access to one of the most diverse choice of cuisines in the world. Every now and then however one yearns for the well trodden track of delicacies to be found on the menu of a french bistro. To sate this habitual craving I would go to one of a few trusted restaurants to avoid disappointment. Chez Elles on Brick Lane is very friendly with some fantastic dishes; The Bleeding Heart Bistro near Smithfields is perfect for sitting outside in the summer; Cafe du Marche in the same area is a bit more romantic, and finally you have Brasserie Chavot when you are ready to take it to the frontier of the meaning of Bistro with a Michelin starred experience.
Every now and again though one must try something new and in this case for my partner and me it was Terroirs. We went late on a Friday which is probably always a risky time to eat anywhere. My partner started with the Rilletes which was OK but did not eke out anything more than a grunt, a verbal realistation of the gallic shrug. I had the Cantabrian Anchovies with shallots and was disappointed to see a set of anchovies that looked as if they had come out of a tin accompanied with slivers of the aforementioned allium and some toast. I was willing to forget this as a mistake due to ignorance on my part…
For the main course I had the bavette (steak) with dauphinoise potatoes. Many may disagree with me but in my mind the French cuts of meat are far superior to the English ones. They are more tender and definitely lend to eating the meat rarer which is my preference. When I received my plate with 4 small pieces of meat I was thoroughly disappointed. The size was akin to something you would expect as part of a tasting menu rather than a main course at a bistro. The potatoes were adequate but I prefer far less cream. I can understand the reasoning (I surmise it is to give you something to mop up with the bread and the steak) but I would definitely have preferred a sauce as an accompaniment. Furthermore I asked if they had any seasonal vegetables as an accompaniment (something other than potatoes) and was told that the only option was a side salad. My partner's choice of Morteau Sausage, Puy Lentils, Ham Hock & Savoy Cabbage was nice to have on the menu but came over a bit salty with nothing to boost it above mediocrity.
We played safe with dessert and took the chocolate pot and Creme Broulee. The former lived up to expectations. The latter had a wonderful custard but, for my taste, was let down by too thick a crust which meant it got too easily stuck between the teeth.
In summary, this place was very average with nothing to make me want to go back. I will be sticking with my more frequented haunts for a while yet.