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|Address:||Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate (38-39th floor), London EC2N 4AY|
|Tel:||020 3640 7330|
|Price: £66.00||Wine: £35.00||Champagne: £65.00|
|Opening Hours:||Sun-Thurs 11.30am-12M (Fri-Sat -1am)|
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In a week when the icon of the Eighties, Mrs T, had her funeral, the ironic juxtaposition of making my belated debut at this SM hotspot, was not immediately obvious. Yet somehow this over stylised trip up the Heron tower left me thinking about an advertisement that ran at some point in that decade for a building society savings account, that featured, I recall George Cole as Arthur Daley “laughing all the way to the Leeds” due to their generous offering of savings rate – probably an eye-watering double digit return. The staff at Sushisamba (of which there appears to be an never ending supply) don’t smile an awful lot but someone somewhere is literally grinning from ‘ere to there about how they can get away with such mediocre offerings at such outrageous prices. It is not my norm to use SM reviews to criticise in such a way, but for these Cheshire fat cats I have to make an exception. Lots of enticingly lovely if not original offerings on the menu, but the execution and the bill leave you empty; stomach and wallet both. A helpful waiter will steer you through a tricky menu, of which this isn’t particularly if you are at least vaguely au fait with Modern Japanese (or Modern Brazilian Japanese), an irritating waiter is one who shamelessly tries to push the most expensive items on the menu (But aren’t they all! I hear you cry) time and time again, citing it as his favourite dish. It may well be, but steak on hot stones, with at best half a small overcooked chorizo sausage, is just that. Health and safety take note; the stones were very hot – yet the meat not! How so? The most pleasing plate was the Hamachi sashimi, which was cut; I am pleased to say in a more slab than slither fashion. It’s bedfellow of ginger however was lacking. The same can not be said of the Zuwai Gani nigiri (Snow Crab) which at £11 for 2 morsels (before service charge), was eagerly anticipated as a potential highlight but was like the proverbial lazy postman – it failed to deliver. They are clever folk though, managing to stage queues when there are free tables in the restaurant, this was after 2.30pm too, so kudos to you Mr Maitre D’. To cap it all off something my companion and I ate, during this stint of style over style, was not quite ‘right’ as it left him and I in need of a trip to the pharmacist, enough said. The media made much of Baroness Thatcher being divisive, and let’s leave that one to the politico pundits, but for me Sushisamba clearly will have its fans and its detractors, the former will need plenty of cash or credit, and the latter will have to be content that there are far better places in the capital to get better modern Japanese food without the price tag.