The fact that Sartoria has tailor's dummies in the window says a lot about its attitude to food – more style than substance. I had an acceptable but not exceptional business lunch here – a starter of poached egg, truffle, polenta and cheese was spoilt by a slightly watery, bland egg. The main course of John Dory was more flavourful and the fish was perfectly cooked, soft and moist in the middle with a crisp skin and delicious vegetable accompaniments. The service was fautless but the staff seemed to somehow lack the passion that you find in some of the other D&D establishments.