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|Address:||26-29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL|
|Tel:||020 3641 5837|
|Price: £46.00||Wine: £19.00||Champagne: £55.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Fri 8-11am Mon-Sat 12N-3pm 5.30-11pm|
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Assuming Quo Vadis is still going in 15 years time I will be bringing my godson here for his first swanky grown-up London restaurant experience and trying not to bore on too much about how I came here “in my youth” with his parents for a great meal. We'll battle through Soho streets, find the revolving door between the sex-shop and the latest oxygen bar, then step into a sophisticated world which hasn't changed since my last visit. The still smiling staff in the lobby will whisk us straight up to the “members only” feel bar and I'll order him an amazing cocktail while we lounge on the comfy sofas. Before it goes to his head we will head down to the lively dining room, picking our way through the well-heeled clientele (he'll be relieved I nagged him into wearing clean trousers), to our banquette table tucked away behind a glass screen at the back. The menu will baffle him a bit and I'll explain the meaning of “rissoles”, “sweetbreads” and “green salad”. Even though the menu changes daily (and we can tell as it says -5 degrees at the top today and it hasn't been that warm since the Big Freeze of 2015) by extraordinary coincidence I'll be able to have the delicious pheasant pie again with its crisp crust and gamey juice, after gorging on the same delicious pate nibbly starters. I will have insisted on ordering veggie sides and then remembered that they're not necessary and we're full now and can't fit in pudding which is a shame because rhubarb trifle or a little chocolate tart would have reminded me of a bygone era before even my own. We'll have downed a few glasses of new-world red (French wine's been banned since we exited the EU). We'll roll out into the night after a hefty bill inflated somewhat since the £55 a head I paid all those years ago and I'll give him £500 for the hovercraft ride back to his student digs in slummy Chelsea. Godson's parents, if you're reading, there is nothing Mrs Robinson about this, I promise. You can come too if you want, it's going to be great.