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|Address:||11 Berwick Street, London W1F 0PL|
|Tel:||020 7439 8627|
|Price: £40.00||Wine: £18.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-11pm (Sun -4pm)|
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After several visits, the first incarnation of Polpetto was well established on our “go back to” list and we were both surprised and disappointed when we rang one day and got no answer. After what seems an age its now popped up half a mile away on Berwick Street, and the time between my hearing this and making my reservation can't have been more than five minutes.
In some ways little has changed. Its still a restricted menu of small and a little bit larger plates of interesting Italian based food- and its kind of hard to know how many to order given what you choose to eat. The food is tasty and interesting, though not gourmet. It varies from quite creative to a marginally different take on dishes like Caesar Salad ( the Cavolo Nero with anchovy and bread ) with a tendency towards the latter, but no complaints here, its pretty much all food I like. The veal cheeks and pappardelle with hare ragu were pretty good today, we thought – though the simpler dishes like lentils and tomatoes didn't stand out the same way. Good bread and excellent olive oil.
My wife thought the menu was shorter than it was and checking old sites online confirms this- and don't expect all your favourites from Polpetto Mark 1 to be on the menu now. Certainly the place was bigger, but its long and narrow, not an elegant shape and diners sit in long rows and rather too close together in the main space anyway. We liked the character of the old place rather more, though as we always ate there at lunch with a reservation we never felt the effect of the long lines that its minute size produced.
So, mixed emotions from us- great to see it back and our visit today was certainly enjoyable. Is it better than it was? We didn't think so, but its early days both for us and for the restaurant. Go again? Sure.