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|Address:||8-10 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NQ|
|Tel:||020 7290 7600|
|Price: £73.00||Wine: £24.00||Champagne: £60.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-2.30pm 6-10.30pm|
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This beautiful, contemporary space – roomy bar adjoining a comfortable but modern dining area – is a first-rate addition to the London dining scene. And that’s even before the food arrives. Lively, well located and hitting the right price points, this is understandably popular but it is the food that plays centre stage, with bells and whistles aplenty and flavours that mock other diners of similar standing. Escabeche of quail, chicken liver cream, nuts & seeds had a moreish opulence while the richness of a scallop ceviche with cucumber & radish was cut through by a searingly fresh yuzu soy dressing that added zingy intensity. A tomato gazpacho pre-starter was pretty as a picture and simply delicious. Roasted halibut was soft juicy and yielding and came with a Catalan paella which was broodingly earthy and exquisitely rich too. And by all accounts the lunchtime set menu is a deliciously flavoured bargain, too.
Service is efficient and well informed – hardly surprising when the sommelier and maitre d’ have come with Jason from Maze.
Good private dining room in basement. One caveat: hard-edged glass frontage and no ‘soft furnishings’ means noise bounces off the walls and will prove painful for the hard-of-hearing.