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|Address:||1 Kinnerton Street, London SW1X 8EA|
|Tel:||020 3551 9860|
|Price: £93.00||Wine: £24.00||Champagne: £58.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sat 12N-2.30pm 6.30-10.30pm|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
Spoilt from the second we walked in, to the time we were coat-clad and ready to leave. Not bad considering this was only the 5th day after reopening. Greeted by charming people, we entered a room set out in curved theme, neutral and metallically laden, apart from a wall of rich red. The circular glass wine store was a dramatic focal point around which tables had been very well arranged.
Within this comfortable atmosphere, the pace of service proved excellent. Staff gave the impression that they were happy and relaxed as they went about their duties discreetly, knew exactly what they should be doing, and also managed to appear – as if by telepathy – just at the moment of need.
Two cones of pleasant pop corn, one smoked paprika and the other with notes of lemon and black pepper, made me unsure quite where this culinary journey might lead. I needn’t have pondered. Detailed preparation and presentation were impressive. Most of all so much attention had been allotted to flavour, such as in richly concentrated onion soup, bright watercress soup with a flavour depth to match langoustine tails, and a comforting side dish of thyme scented potato boulangere. Chefs (I think there were at least a dozen) knew how to make the individual flavours sing out harmoniously and with heavenly intensity. For a main course I considered the risk of ordering Lobster with cider? A succulent crustacean sitting very happily on pork belly with claw meat nestling within gem lettuce was the reward, making me realise just how wonderfully versatile this sea creature could be. Gressingham duck ‘billed’ as crisp-skinned was not, but other than that was perfectly cooked to order with a zingy beetroot and ginger accompaniment. Puds, though they sounded enticing, are hardly ever ordered by us and thank goodness we didn’t, as the treats just kept coming one after another.
Staff were pleased to let us step inside the wine store to marvel at the stock, and we were treated to a tour of the basement kitchen, aimed primarily to introduce us to the chef’s table located alongside. This rounded off our lunchtime extravagance rather well before we departed feeling indulged, satiated and with memories of some darn good food.