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|Address:||1 Leicester Street, London WC2H 7BL|
|Tel:||020 7768 6102|
|Price: £46.00||Wine: £20.00||Champagne: £60.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 8-11am Tues-Wed 5.30-9.30pm Fri-Sun 12N-3pm|
2 of 2 people found this review helpful.
One Leicester Street is a happy hybrid: neither a formal dining room nor a Soho-style sharing plates joint, it's a confident blend of the two. The menu is inventive and sometimes offbeat, deliciously deploying ingredients such as duck hearts, devilled pig's skin, pork collar and shaved ice. Happily the cooking keeps pace with the culinary ambition of the menu: one dish of grilled onion and goat's curd was similar to one I tried at Story recently; here the execution was ten times better with the onion slivers expertly and uniformly caramelised round the edges.
The theme of the dishes is humble ingredients combined in fresh ways, such as cuttlefish, cannelini beans and mint, or peas, wild garlic and Berskwell cheese. I absolutely loved the cod's roe and pig skin. Some of the desserts had a fancier presentation, such as the salt caramel, apple and hazlenut which in the nicest possible way resembled a crumbling stone wall. The cooking was very strong although not perfect: once or twice there was a bit too much reliance on butter; a green sauce garnish appeared on several dishes; and my otherwise-terrific brown butter & honey tart wasn't all of uniform consistency. This is the difference between an 8 and a 9 though.
I brought two Canadian relatives here to show them what a modern London restaurant looks like: proudly British food, served in smart surroundings but in an informal sharing style, delivered by charming and knowledgeable waitstaff. They were delighted with it. It's been priced so that it's accessible – dishes range from £6 to £16 – so for anyone seeking contemporary British food without the formality of a fine dining restaurant, I'd recommend it heartily.