Junglefresh.'s review of Odette's

My wife and I were curious to try Odettes in its new icarnation under the ownership of Bryn Williams. I had never really rated it when it was the haunt of the denizens of the “World of Advertising” (a number of whom had over the years taken me there to show how big a bill they could write off on expenses). We went with a couple of friends visiting London from San Clemente (Nixon territory for those that remember). We had a very enjoyable evening, but I have been left with the feeling that this is a work in progress rather than the finished article. I feel I need to justify this conclusion. Good points: The food itself was very serious – I eat out a lot, and all over the place, but this was imaginative cooking with unusual pairings of flavours, the odd flight of eccentric individuality (Assiette de Porc or Pig's Head – not for the faint hearted), very well executed and stylishly presented. My starter of miniscule pieces of raw tuna on confit tomato served with a concentrated beetroot nage was a feast on the palate. The main course of Turbot pan fried to absolute perfection with crispy, almost caramelised pieces of oxtail with cockles was… well, I loved it. Our friends ordered mushroom soup – sounds uninspiring ? The actual soup looked really wonderful (especially in the way it was served) and I am told tasted original and great. My wife's Quail's egg starter was, by comparison, more a triumph of style over substance. However, all the main courses drew huge praise (the lamb was perfectly executed, the salmon looked equally good, as did the halibut). Less Good Points: The Wine List seems to me to be overpriced: I love certain Portuguese reds, and there are four levels of Quinta do Crasto available if you look for them, the entry level one is fine and not expensive to buy: it deserved a place on the list, but not at £28. I don't really like Montepulicano D'Abruzzo and £24 seems too high a price for such an undistinguished wine. We chose the Trinity Hill Syrah at £28 (what can I tell you, I look for value when I buy wine in restaurants). I think that the Bleeding Heart charges less for this wine ( I tried to check, but the website has no specific wines listed) and other Trinity Hill wines (which are very enjoyable). In my view, all restaurants should have at least one “house wine” which represents good value for those that aren't looking to impress or to spend what is left of pre-crunch bonuses. Another minor gripe is that our glasses were over-filled though I did not get the impression that this was out of the usual attempt to get us to order another bottle (which we did anyway). I was also minorly irritated by the person who “welcomed” us to the restaurant abandoning us temporarily to do other things because my friend was taking too long to take off his coat – either you are serving a customer and stick with it, or you are not. You cannot half-serve. So, there you have it: Primrose Hill – lovely. Setting of the restaurant – comfortable, elegant. Food – loved it. Wines – could do better at the “value” end. Service – work in progress. This restaurant could be great !