Max25's review of No.20 at the Sanctum Soho Hotel

The Square Meal review above is a little misleading – suggesting that No.20 is a buzz of exciting dining. We went for a post-theatre dinner on Saturday night expecting Ivy-levels of excitement and activity, and the room was almost empty – at 10.30 on a Saturday night…? Maybe it's still too new, too soon – but it's certainly not a happening restaurant yet.

That said, the meal was excellent. A comfort food-oriented offering that certainly seems to nod to the Ivy's timeless benchmarks. Breads were original, starters outstanding and main courses excellent, while dessert could not be faulted. The wine list, while admittedly short and populist – has some gems on it.

The room is pleasant enough – I think probably when full of people would draw less attention to itself and more to the other diners. The largely Eastern European service is pleasantly attentive and eager to please – but they still need to get some basics down – such as what makes a Martini dirty and that Bombay Sapphire is a gin.

And it's all surprisingly good value too compared to usual boutique hotel restaurant prices. If the adjoining hotel can help to cultivate something of an atmosphere, it should find its niche as a stylish, dependable SOHO bolthole.