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|Address:||34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QE|
|Tel:||020 7833 8336|
|Price: £47.00||Wine: £19.00||Champagne: £70.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12.30-2.30pm (Sun -3.15pm) Mon-Sat 6-10.30pm|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
Having dined in London's best restaurants over the last 15 years, there is one that still tops them all. Moro.
Fads come and go (Ramsey, Oliver, telephone directory menus, blowtorched snails, 30 minute sittings, tables without chairs) but only the truly great survive and Moro is such a place.
Moro isn't fancy and trendy. It just is. It is a place where lovers of food and conversation come. I genuinely get excited when it's time for lunch at Moro and last week I was delighted to get the table in the corner where the late Lucien Freud used to have a quick glass before nipping down the bookies on Exmouth Market.
From where I sat I had full view of the infamous bar where the action takes place. Moro is a place to people watch and if you are on your own, like I was, you can be a voyeur and feel good about it too. From frustrated writers pretending to write when they are really listening to the Guardian hack interviewing a junior minister for some gossip and insight to the men without wedding rinds entertaining their latest hire with promises of promotion, Moro is a soap opera. It is a place where the people come first and the food comes second. Which is how it should be. But the food comes a very close second. The quasi Morrocan-Med food is made with fresh ingredients and cooked lovingly by staff who have been at Moro for many years. Why go anywhere else, they say.
Moro always works and the food is always tongue tasting delicious. The staff have stories to tell and look after you like a long lost Uncle. You will not be disappointed.
Moro is packed and noisy today, which is usually how it is, and on the menu I have gone for my favourites because I knew I was writing this review. Cuttlefish, grilled pepper and cauliflower salad with pine nuts and mojo rojo. Wood roasted chicken with green olive, almond and chilli with tomato salsa and red lentil puree. And finally the Rosewater and cardamom ice cream. And a bottle of ‘Unico’ Gran Reserva 1999 which costs me the price of a Turnbull & Asser shirt. Heaven it was.
Moro is the benchmark against all other restaurants I shall be reviewing. Having a large expense account I am lucky to be able to experience London's best restaurants which is a good thing because London's restaurants are the best in the world. And Moro is still the best but I am determined to find one that is as good or maybe exceed it. A tall order but it's a challenge I am looking forward to.