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|Address:||46 Brewer Street, London W1F 9TF|
|Tel:||020 3544 2394|
|Price: £41.00||Wine: £17.50||Champagne: £59.50|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12N-11pm (Sun -10pm)|
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With the glut of one track minded restaurants like Burger & Lobster, Bubbledogs and Tramshed, I'm relieved to discover that Mele e Pere doesn't just serve apple and/or pear based dishes. In fact other than a pear cocktail there doesn't seem to be any other reason for the name here. I'm fairly sure the English instinct to shout “Apples N Pears…Stairs!” is just a co-incidence and not a sign of some new-fangled Italian Cockney fusion cuisine. Although the menu does seem a little confused: the website describes the food as both classic and modern and there's a selection of share-y stuff as well as pasta and main courses. Sharing is a popular concept in London right now (thanks Nopi, Polpo etc etc) but what happened to the poor old fashioned Starter, Main and Dessert idea? Anyway, between 3 we shared deep fried squid, aubergine parmesan, tuscan soup and bigoli, which were all tasty if a bit of a random mix. I enjoyed a main of tagliatelle with a very flavoursome beef ragu and we loved the chocolate souffle. The atmosphere is also a bit schizo: there are daytime trattoria type light oak tables which look like they're from John Lewis but the lighting is nighthawk dim with Soho-red tinges in places. The one thing that is focussed is the wine list which covers a mind-boggling array of almost exclusively Italian wines (they slip in a few sweet ones from abroad but that's the only section where they wander off message). Whilst it's all a bit confusing that's not to say it's bad. Service is good, it's got a relaxed atmosphere, it's not trying to be too cool, and the price is right (under £50 a head for what amounted to 3 courses plus a bottle of Soave). We had a great night and I would come back again.