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|Address:||Cavendish Street, Cartmel, Cumbria LA11 6PZ|
|Price: £72.00||Wine: £21.00||Champagne: £45.00|
|Opening Hours:||Wed-Sun 12N-1.30pm Mon-Sun 6.30-9pm|
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A masterful performance by L’Enclume Restaurant, was slightly let down by their accommodation. Eventually issues were put right regarding the room, which is all that mattered.
The restaurant is where the looks, the taste and the textures vie for position. For me, Sunday 7th July was an evening of sheer joy and delectable food. Discussions were inevitably focused on the topic too. Mr Rogan ensures that balanced flavours and interesting textures come first but sometimes the subject looks so gorgeous that one hesitates to dismantle the casual, and yet precise arrangement. The props of ceramic sacks, wood and slate etc. thankfully do not detract from the main event appearing before your eyes, whilst your ear tries to assimilate the detailed description, enthusiastically and knowledgeably delivered (by one delightful lady in particular whose name escapes me). All staff, however, deserve mention.
I don’t think I have ever been so close to being mesmerised by a ‘plate’ of food. I do not favour statistics, but it is impossible to ignore the fact that in one evening alone, as many as a thousand dishes pass under the chef’s eye – 20 courses per head. To achieve this is no mean feat in itself, but to deliver with such precision, beauty and consistently good flavour causes rapturous waves to ripple through the dining space (I was clearly not alone in opinion). L’Enclume surpassed enjoyment delivered in Bray’s Fat Duck, although it is a number of years since I have dined there. Having sampled Roganic in London, I couldn’t have dreamt that L’Enclume could be quite this good – what the chef does is not only clever, but exceedingly well thought through and refreshingly very British.
Our English sparkling wine took us through the first 8 morsels, which included sensational smoked eel with ham fat encased in a crisp crumbed exterior. Crispy intertwined strands of potato and onion, a piece of chicken skin and black pudding, asparagus with crab to name a few. Then there was a divine turnip and ‘English’ truffle dish which also left us wanting more…… Wild sea bass was divine and then the duck left me almost lost for words. As if this wasn’t enough my partner had alternatives to fish and I tasted his sublime roasted cauliflower. We chose a very good burgundy with the help of the sommelier which lasted through to the main course. Two stunning dessert wines, completely contrasting but complemented the range of delicious dessert selection.
What I like so much is that the menu changes regularly according to season. Produce is sourced locally and even better some ingredients are foraged. Everyone deserves a taste of heaven and in L’Enclume this is probably the closest anyone of us will get. Simon Rogan himself was at the pass. Had he not been there, then I would have been astounded at the impeccable standard.