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|Address:||29 Romilly Street, London W1D 5HP|
|Tel:||020 3641 8302|
|Price: £40.00||Wine: £16.00||Champagne: £48.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12N-12M (Thurs-Sat -1am Sun -10.30pm)|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
Kettners shouldn't be thought of as a restaurant with a champagne bar attached, but as a champagne bar that offers food.
The champagne list is far and away the best in London; I know that the champagne bar at St Pancres gets all the plaudits (and it is a beautifully romantic place to have a glass of bubbly), but the champagne list there is safe and, dare I say it, a little boring. Yes they have Salon, yes they have Krug, but where are the small, independent Grand Crus?* Kettners has them, that is where: Egly-Ouriet, Larmandier-Bernier, Jacquesson, they are all here. Sure you could go mainstream Veuve here, but why bother when there are so many better choices at much better prices?
As for the food, well it is fine: the confit of duck was a fair example, the risotto far from the worst I've had, but that sort of misses the point. Go to Kettners and chose a top quality champagne. If you're hungry, grab something to eat (my 8 rating for food and drink combined is a 10 for the drink and a 6 for the food, averaged out).
Service is friendly and the atmosphere buzzing (it is Soho after all), with the throng enjoying themselves loudly in a room that is big and open enough for it to work well.
Whilst far from as romantic or elegant as the champagne bar at St Pancras (Edward VII, Lillie Langtry and Oscar Wilde are all rumoured to have frequented Kettners in the past, but their ghosts cannot beat the frisson of romance that St Pancres holds, with its promise of being whisked away on Eurostar to Paris, Brief Encouter style), for the champagne, it is a better choice.