Jonesy's review of Hibiscus

I had a truly exceptional mid-week lunch here with two fellow critics from The Arbuturian who were equally impressed. We dined from the set lunch menu, excellent value at £25 for three courses. Bosi is renowned for his inventive cooking and is one of the few chefs tipped for a potential third Michelin star next year, and I can see why.

For a main course I had a cottage pie, which is not something one would expect to see on a haute cuisine menu; but this was cottage pie Bosi-style, and it was the most incredible cottage pie that I have ever eaten. The flavours were deep and intense, yet defined and playful; this calibre of construction and execution could be seen throughout the courses.

Some of his dishes have been criticised for being a little too inventive, but I think it's admirable that he's trying to take food to new levels. This is not molecular gastronomy, but high-end haute cuisine, which means pushing the boundaries of the classic framework established by Antonin Careme over a hundred years ago.

I returned for another meal here, this time visiting on a Saturday night to sample their gourmet set menus. The format on Saturday is geared towards a foodie experience – you choose from either a 4, 6 or 8 course menu, and you don't know what you're going to get until it arrives at the table. It was an excellent meal.