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|Address:||29 Maddox Street, London W1S 2PA|
|Tel:||020 3544 0784|
|Price: £86.00||Wine: £26.00||Champagne: £80.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 12N-2.15pm Tues-Sat 6.30-11pm (Fri-Sat 6pm- )|
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We headed into Mayfair for Claude Bosi's slightly more gentrified and experimental take on French cuisine. The two starred Hibiscus was upended from foodie Mecca Ludlow and the chef has stuck to the kitchen, resisting the temptation to turn businessman and expand brand Bosi.
An imposing and genial man, Chef Bosi can't be missed, arms folded, ready with a joke or retort, while his sharp eyes scan the room. He looks almost at odds with the refined and delicate food he serves in the small, unfussy space on Maddox Street. You'd expect rugby player hands the size of hams to be more at home with big meat butchery or at least the more rustic cuisine of the region, however it's clear in his cooking that he possesses a surgeon's delicacy.
There's a fussy attention to detail as high as you'd expect from any two starred chef. The chicken was slow poached then roasted, arctic rolls of meat served with a rough mushroom filling. The white bean came with a kick of lime, but the other flavours of peanut and ginger, allegedly present, were too subtle for my palate. Despite that, I could have eaten the whole thing again. It went very well with a light Rioja.