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|Address:||1-3 Stable Street, Granary Square, London N1C 4AB|
|Tel:||020 7324 4466|
|Price: £46.00||Wine: £20.00||Champagne: £52.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 11am-11.30pm (Thurs-Sat –12M Sun – 4.30pm)|
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In many respects a game-changing restaurant. Half warehouse, half country kitchen with a terrific amount going on (steel girders, brick walls, hanging lights, racks of wine alongside racks of copper pans, the kitchen at the heart, competing with the bar to be the subject of your gaze). It all makes for an excellent vibe. Staff are delightfully welcoming and so well trained you feel well looked after from the moment you arrive (a glass of water is put in front of you as you sit down).
The menu is a cook’s world tour of dishes with the humble vegetable taking centre stage and clever tricksy touches, and prices that are unscary. Crudités are served with a cashew and yeast dip with ‘soil’ made from finely chopped olives, and an equally simple but very tasty potato and rye bread was slathered in seaweed butter and served with the now notorious, sea-flavoured oyster and borage leaves. For mains a corn & quinoa tamale packed a punch alongside sticky pork belly but was overshadowed by the comforting and more complete flavours of sea bream served with dhal lentils, and a confit of lamb belly beautifully dished up with spiced mash, mint pickled cucumber, and fava beans.
Nice wine list is full of interesting selections but does not allow you to sit on your wallet. All comes alive on hot days when doors open onto the square outside, with its lime trees, fountains and sense of space. The phoenix of Google’s emerging offices adds to the feeling of expectation.