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|Address:||London Hilton, 22 Park Lane, London W1K 1BE|
|Tel:||020 3463 0299|
|Price: £78.00||Wine: £20.00||Champagne: £68.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Fri 12N-2.30pm Sun 11.45am-3.30pm Mon-Sat 6-10pm (Thurs-Sat -10.30pm )|
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
In a word overrated.
Well the food is alright, although personally I’d expect a bit more for a Michelin star, its not exceptional and certainly no better than in their other restaurants, the key difference is you really pay for the view and that star, you could eat the same food at La Chapelle for £50-£55, here the Prestige menu plus a supplement for the beef means you pay £70.
After some bread and a pre starter the meal proper started with mushroom risotto, which was fine, very easy to get wrong and hard to get right; the taste and texture were both excellent but somewhat overwhelmed by the pecorino emulsion. This was followed by fillet of beef, which wasn’t pink as promised, but was fine although less good than in Bistrot de Luxe, about half the size and as usual with a Galvin option minus much in the way of supporting acts like veg. Followed by vanilla poached pear – frankly a huge disappointment, either the pear wasn’t ripe or hadn’t been poached for long enough and was somewhat chewy and with a crumble style topping that you’d get in a Travelodge.
The view is nice but limited and nowhere near as impressive as 40|30, Vertigo42, the Tate, OXO Tower, Pont de la Tour etc; the way the room is set up you can only see out of the window by your table and not in any other direction and if you don’t get a window table (make sure you request it when booking) then you’ll not see a lot.
Service was polite and attentive and not overwhelming.
The bill, frankly £385 for 2 people to eat 3 courses, all be it plus quite a bit of drink is steep even by Mayfair standards and if you are going to spend that there a way better options than here e.g. Marcus Waering. The food is at least £10 more than it needs to be for that quality, but the thing that really sticks out is the cost of drinks. A vodka and lemonade is £12, champagne £16 a glass, cocktails pushing £20 and any decent wine comes with a 3 figure price tag (and in some cases rapidly can get towards 4 figures) and despite an extensive wine list you’ll do very well to find a bargain. And then there is the slightly depressing incident with the dessert wine – the waiter came over before dessert and did the whole “I hope you are having a lovely evening, have you enjoyed it” bit explaining what you could see from the view etc and then said “how about I get you a nice dessert wine to go with your choices” – its not uncommon in many places for this to be a statement that amounts to “have a drink on the house” – given by that stage we’ve probably already gone though £280 with more to come its not that unreasonable to believe this; what it really amounted to was I’m going to choose you both an expensive glass of wine, not show you a menu, let alone prices, add it to the bill and charge you service on top and that’s another £40 thanks. There was also a policy of keeping you in the restaurant to buy drinks, with service on top and where you didn’t see prices, rather than going to the bar where you’d just pay cash and save 12.5% – it left a slightly sour taste.
The room is very badly laid out, already dated (think early 2000's shag pad) and if you look not too hard a bit tatty in a few places and also filled with pretentious people who think they are a bit better than they are and have really made it by being here; you haven’t and there are far better options in London if you want decent food and/or atmosphere e.g. the OXO Tower, Nobu or indeed anything else in the Galvin stable. But if you’d like to see middle aged men trying to impress women who clearly aren’t their wives, but frankly who may be rather more impressed with an thick envelope of £20’s, then this is a good choice, though frankly having to troll through the rather depressing Hilton (it's really not a decent hotel, its a chain and there are tens of better places in London) and wait ages for the slowest lifts in the world also didn’t help either.
I really can’t recommend this and it’s a shame as I’ve given every other one of Galvin’s restaurants a good write up – I won’t be going back