Find and book great restaurantsFind a Restaurant
|Address:||50 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 5HN|
|Tel:||020 7466 5501|
|Price: £49.00||Wine: £19.75||Champagne: £58.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Sun 8am-11pm (Sun -10.30pm)|
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I am never the first through the door at the trendiest new opening so I was delighted when someone in the know suggested taking me to lunch at Fischers. It turns out this isn't exactly “trendy”, being aimed instead at the well-heeled grandpa market. Sadly, this Colbert & King incarnation, with its low ceilings and small dining room, lacks the grandeur of their other venues and takes the Austrian konditorei theme too far: yes it feels like an old Viennese restaurant (complete with dubious oil paintings etc) but one that could really do with an update. First thing on the skip: the ridiculous oversized clock that looks like it was picked up at vast expense from an architectural salvage yard and intended for another space but which now hangs gloomily here over the snowy heads of those who could really do without being reminded of the inexorable passing of time. The menu harks back to another era, but one which, like the name Noah, now seems to be back in fashion: it's all sausages and strudel. I rather like it because it is hearty without being yet another burger. My starter of goats cheese was creamy and intense (although could have been more mousse-like light) but well balanced by sharp beetroot; my enormous wiener schnitzel was tender and flavoursome but could have done without the strange sticky sauce and the jammy berry dollop on the side; my unpronounceable dessert was a piece of calvados infused heaven which looked like a hardened horror but tasted meltingly delicious. Personally I am a big fan of sweet wine so the Austro-German focus suited me but wouldn't be to everyone's tastes (unless you developed yours during the infamous Blue Nun heyday). Service is old school with the maitre d' greeting each customer like an old friend (in both senses of that adjective) and whilst I didn't get to see the bill I guess it would have costs a bob or six. Its opening, and certain survival, is testament to the power of the grey pound.