R.R.Gill's review of Criterion

It's been many many years since I last dined at the Criterion and yet again I'm wondering why. Centrally located, opulent and glitzy – The acoustics from the high ceiling create a wonderfully buzzy atmosphere. I love the old school outlook – starting with the charming staff and the luxurious decor.

The food highlights the best of British with many comforting and deliciously rich favourites. A starter of Foie gras torchon, tomato & onion relish, port reduction, brioche was very good – smooth and rich and gave little feeling of decadence, likewise the Native lobster & wild salmon ravioli, bisque was real treat and it was a bit of a struggle to keep room for the White & dark chocolate tart, praline mousse, kumquat compote for dessert (although I managed).

Personally I feel the new ownership will reignite interest – actually judging from the full lunch sitting I saw, it already has. The Criterion has so much to offer and is absolutely ideal for a pre or post theatre dinner. Prices are excellent considering the prime location and I'm a little surprised they are not higher considering all the polishing that must be done! After 134 years it's good to see an institution still going strong.