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|Address:||28 Upper Grosvenor Street, London W1K 7EH|
|Tel:||020 7499 9943|
|Price: £68.00||Wine: £27.00||Champagne: £79.00|
|Opening Hours:||Mon-Fri, Sun 12N-2.45pm (Sun -3.45pm) Mon-Sun 6-10.30pm (Sun -9.15pm)|
2 of 3 people found this review helpful.
If you have never eaten Richard Corrigan's food I would thoroughly recommend you give it a try. If you have, then you will need no prompting to make your way to his eponymous Mayfair restaurant. He is clearly passionate about his food and his heritage, this shines through on the plate. All the food we had was excellent, some of it was outstanding.
The overall impression is warm and welcoming. Staff make an effort to open doors, stand aside for you to pass, smile and greet you as you come and go. These things matter a lot and they get them right. The room is beautifully lit, lots of candles, dark blue leather and dark wood, lovely for a winter evening. Attention has been paid to the details – cutlery, glasses, linen.
The service is possibly rather inexperienced but trying hard and that means you can forgive them a lot. Our waiter was probably the campest I have ever come across and his infectious enthusiasm made the evening highly enjoyable. Staff bringing the food, however, seemed slightly unsure as to who was meant to have what. The Sommelier, although asked for, didn't appear, and although we got the bottle of champagne we ordered, we weren't given any canapes.
Knowledge of the food should have been better – the chef has clearly taken a lot of trouble over provenance and season, it would have been good if the staff could have shown that they understood this. I asked the waiter to choose between two fish dishes and would have appreciated an answer which described something about them, not just “have that one”. Bread is excellent and is replenished without prompting, tap water was brought chilled and with enthusiasm but glasses should have been refilled without having to be asked.
Although the menu appears initially rather dauntingly heavy, the cooking has a deftness of touch and is beautifully balanced. Wild smoked salmon was notable and accompanied by light as a feather beignets of deep-fried goats cheese, the creaminess of which perfectly complemented the richness of the salmon. Flavours are bold, textures are well contrasted and intelligently thought through. Chips, fried in goose fat, were exceptional – perfectly browned and crisp on the outside, meltingly soft within. Star of the evening was rhubarb souffle served with creme anglais and ginger ice cream – the intense rhubarb flavour countered by a gorgeously crunchy crust which was instantly reminiscent of the best rhubarb crumble you ever tasted, and then contrasted with the tangy acidity of the stem ginger ice cream. Heaven.
The bill was surprisingly reasonable for the location.